Learning better food systems in Nouméa
Two AUT gastronomy students have visited New Caledonia to learn about resilient and sustainable food systems.
The pair were hosted in Nouméa by Pacific Food Lab - New Caledonia as they attended the Bal du Village de l’Alimentation (food village ball) and Fête des Produits Locaux (celebration of local foods).
“I was aware of how colonisation, mining, and monocrops have devastated Pacific food systems, but seeing the grassroots recovery from this has been inspiring,” AUT student Dianne Ma says.
“My favourite dish was coconut-braised octopus with local yams and plantains, and my favourite drink was pomme-liane, made from multiple varieties of passionfruit that the vendors grew themselves.”
There is still progress to be made in promoting resilient and sustainable food in the small island nation, however, with many people showing a reliance upon and preference for non-Pasific Island food, she says.
“The majority of the vendors were serving fried food - with long lines for hot dogs and pizzas.”
Pacific Food Lab - New Caledonia (PFL NC) is an organisation founded by chef and social entrepreneur Gabriel Levionnois that is working to increase the share of raw, processed and cooked local products on the plates of New Caledonians, in order to generate more economic, social and environmental value.
AUT student Dolby Ng says she would have liked to have spent more than five days in Nouméa, however, the trip was useful for understanding the local culture - which was novel and eye opening for her, being born and raised in Hong Kong.
“Despite not having a particularly sweet tooth, I couldn’t resist sampling custard pastries created by local culinary students. To my surprise, they evoked memories of the lava egg custard bao from my own culture. This experience highlighted the incredible power of food in connecting people, preserving cherished memories and bringing joy,” she says.
“The Pacific food systems have been a constant source of surprise for me, particularly coming from a concrete jungle. Everything felt refreshingly new.”
Auckland University of Technology has a memorandum of understanding with PFL NC, which allows for collaborations and student internships.
About three years ago, AUT Professor Tracy Berno helped bring the concept to New Zealand, with the founding of the charitable trust Pacific Food Lab - Aotearoa. Both Pacific Food Labs work on creating more sustainable and resilient food systems and creating networks of people working to improve food culture.
Professor Berno went to Nouméa with her students, and at this year’s Fête des Produits Locaux, was awarded the Fleur de l’Alimentation (flower of food) medal – the only non-local to receive the recognition.
Professor Berno says issues with the food system in New Zealand include food sovereignty, food security, resilience, and the overall sustainability of the system.
“We are a food producing nation, but the vast majority of that food leaves the country. And because of international trade policy and agreements we see a lot of imported food here in New Zealand, and not the best food,” she says.
“This creates pockets of vulnerability. For example, we import nearly all of the wheat that we consume in New Zealand. And because people on low incomes and those experiencing food instability eat a lot of wheat, they suffer the most with any volatility in the price. That’s something that needs to be addressed.”
AUT student Dianne Ma says a learning from the trip to New Caledonia for her was that sometimes it doesn’t take much to make an impact on food sustainability.
“Whilst walking in Port Moselle Harbour, Gaby and Tracy showed us the tiniest bit of land that at first glance appears to be cool landscaping – but is actually a self-sustaining, fully edible garden. It opened my eyes to the rich regenerative agriculture system in New Caledonia.”